Tony told me he knew of a mountain that could transform a rebel Sarahsaurus dinosaur into a princess. All she had to do was take a “princess bath.” Naturally, we headed into the St James Conservation Area to find out if the legend was true.
The Approach: Maling Pass Road in Winter
After camping in sub-zero temperatures on Tophouse Road in St James Conservation Area, we drove as far as the winter conditions allowed. Maling Pass Road is closed during the colder months. This added a 6.5km road walk to our journey before we could even begin the ascent toward Mt Princess.
Top Tip: Due to a significant washout on Tophouse Road, a temporary detour is in place between the St James Homestead and the Edwards Valley Track. The detour is not a formed track, so extra caution is required. The Tophouse Road wouldn’t usually need chains in winter but check the conditions of the road in Hanmer Springs first.
To keep our feet fresh, we started off in sneakers, stashing them in a bag once we got to the snow line above Maling Pass. I carved a giant arrow in the snow to ensure we could find our shoes on the way back down. We swapped the sneakers for boots and donned crampons for the first major snowy climb. This slope was steep near the top, so we opted for a cautious traverse rather than a direct vertical push. This first climb is actually the steepest climb of the whole day, and the terrain gets easier after this.
Top Tip: If you’re heading to the Princess Bath check the DoC website for Maling Pass Road access. The road is only open over the drier summer season, usually from October – May. It is closed over winter. Access will be closed over summer at any time if there is bad weather or track damage
A Wondrous Alpine Fairyland
The higher we climbed, the more the landscape was transformed by a deep layer of snow. It was a stunning bluebird day—the kind of “wondrous fairyland” that makes the effort worth it. From the ridgeline, I had panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and looking down toward Lake Tennyson. We could also look up the Waiau Valley, a route I had explored during the summer when I had walked from St Arnaud through to Lewis Pass over Waiau Pass.
Surprisingly, we had the mountain entirely to ourselves. Not a single other dinosaur or princess was in sight. We climbed past a frozen tarn that glittered in brilliant shades of azure, a colour Tony noted was perfectly fitting for a princess.
Lunch at the Princess Bath with a Flock of Vegetable Sheep
We eventually reached point 1906, the perfect vantage point for a late lunch overlooking the Princess Bath. This beautiful alpine tarn was tucked under a thick blanket of snow, though its iconic outline was still clearly visible. I decided this view alone was enough for my initial transformation, though a summer return will be necessary for the full “bath” experience.
While I was busy admiring the summit of Mt Princess, I inadvertently shared most of my crackers with the local vegetable sheep (Raoulia eximia). Apparently, I still need a few more lessons at “princess school” regarding proper manners fitting of a princess.
Safety First: Navigating Slush and Icy Descents
As the afternoon sun warmed the slopes, the pristine “good cramponing” snow had turned into knee-deep slush. Given the time of day and the long drive back to the ferry since we had done this trip after our Mt Tarahaka trip, we made the call to turn around after point 1906. Before starting the descent, we spent a while looking for Tony’s walking pole that had become buried in deep snow when he was taking photos.
During the descent, we found a very small vegetable sheep that we dubbed a “vegetable lamb” and with the late afternoon sun directly behind us, we had fun playing with our elongated shadows on the white canvas the snow provided.
Our last descent back to the tussock line was steep and icy as it had been in the shade all day. Tony led the way, cutting steps across the steep slope that had a long run-out. I was nervous as I was still a beginner at alpine trips. But I reminded myself that courage is like a muscle—we strengthen it by use. I inched my way across to a rock garden where the gradient finally eased, proving that a princess can be both “brave and scared” at the same time.
Back to Reality
It was a quick trek back down the tussock to retrieve our shoes and back along Maling Pass Road. Just as we reached the car, clouds rolled over Mt Princess, giving us one last dramatic view of the peak.
Tony isn’t quite sure if my princess transformation will stick once we’re back in the city, but after a day like that in the St James Conservation Area, I’m certainly feeling a lot more royal.
Tophouse Road carpark to point 1906 on Mt Princess return: 17km | 7hr | 1060m elevation
FAQs
How hard is the route to climb Princess Bath?
The route is not marked so requires basic navigation skills. However, the navigation is very simple since it just involves following the ridge from Maling Pass all the way to the summit of Mt Princess. The first climb above Maling Pass and around the 1,900m level are probably the steeper climbs but are all perfectly manageable.
Is there water on the route?
Yes, there are a few tarns plus the Princess Bath tarn itself that could be used as a water source, but you should filter the water for safety. In winter, snow could be used if present.
Can I climb Princess Bath in winter?
Yes, but be prepared for winter conditions with ice-axe, crampons and helmet. You will also need to be aware of the avalanche risk, although the route is mostly lower risk since it’s along a ridgeline. If there is now snow, be aware that the scree could be frozen which is extremely dangerous and like walking on marbles on ice.
How long will it take?
Allow plenty of time for safety – consider a whole day, especially if walking from Tophouse Road carpark. There’s approximately 1,300m climbing to the summit.
Can I camp?
Yes, but as Tophouse Road passes through Molesworth Station, a high-country working farm, you must not camp on the roadside. There are a number of places set up for camping. DoC Lake Tennyson campsite is a free campsite with a stream for water and toilets. It is the closest to Mt Princess, right at its base. Camping is also permitted at Fowlers Hut. The hut itself is just a shelter as it has no bunks, but it has toilets and a stream nearby.
Is Hanmer worth checking out?
Definitely, there is an endless list of things to do in Hanmer. Plenty of outdoor options – Mountain biking trails, walking tracks like Mt Isobel & the Woodlands Walk in Hanmer Forest, jet-boating/rafting, horse-riding. And plenty of more relaxed options like the thermal hot pools/springs and shops to explore.
Trip completed September 2023