Lake Colenso, Unknown Campsite & Elusive Ruahine Mountain Dolphins

A few years ago, I found myself trying to convince a friend that there was actually a place called “Unknown Campsite” in the Ruahine Range.

“That’s not very helpful for finding it,” he replied.

Much to his disbelief, I pulled out the topo map to show him that this mysterious backcountry spot does indeed exist.

Route in the Ruahine Range from Mokai Plateau to Okutoka Hut, Iron Bark, Lake Colenso, Unknown Campsite, Maropea Forks Hut, Wakelings Hut

The Unknown in the Backcountry

I think even the most experienced trampers carry a slight sense of uncertainty every time they head into the New Zealand wilderness. Even if it’s a route you’ve walked before, nature is always firmly in charge. The backcountry has a beautiful way of humbling us with unexpected treefall, rerouted rivers, or fresh slips.

In the kiwi backcountry, that sense of wonder and uncertainty is often amplified by places that literally feature the name “Unknown.” The most famous one I’ve stood atop is The Great Unknown—a 2,196-metre peak on the edge of the Garden of Eden Ice Plateau, named by Canterbury mountaineers exploring the area in the 1930s. During that same traverse, we also passed The Little Unknown out to the west. While the Unknown Campsite nestled in a tributary of the Maropea River in the north-west Ruahine might seem less significant by comparison, it remains a vital link connecting the tracks between Lake Colenso and Maropea Forks Hut.

A miniature Santa Claus plush doll hitched onto the back of a tramping pack, with the expansive golden tussock plains of the Mokai Plateau behind. — Santa hitching a ride on the Mokai Plateau

Day 1: Mokai Road End to Otukota Hut via the Mokai Patea Range

This trip marked a personal milestone: my very first time not working Christmas and heading out tramping instead with Anne, Jamie and Lynsey. Santa even came along for the trip. The excitement was high as we started across farmland from the end of Mokai Road where we came to an immediate grinding halt due to a stereotypical kiwi “traffic jam”. We waited patiently for the farm dogs to finish rounding up the flock of sheep directly on our route before kicking off the steep climb up onto the Mokai Patea Range. The route was marked with white painted posts.

A large flock of sheep blocking the farm track near Mokai Road end, with mustering heading into the hills of the Ruahine Range. — What a real kiwi traffic jam looks like…..

As we walked along the tussock tops on the Mokai Plateau, we spotted a few Powelliphanta snails. The Mokai Plateau is a known stronghold for these carnivorous giants of the snail world. They are one of New Zealand’s most threatened invertebrates. From the tops, the descent to Otukota Hut progressively steepened. The final section required navigating across the bottom of an active slip to safely reach the hut.

A large, golden-brown glossed shell of a native carnivorous Powelliphanta snail resting on the alpine tussock of the Mokai Plateau. — The giant of the snail world: Powelliphanta Snails.

Three trampers stand outside a blue Otukota Hut in the Ruahine Range — Otukota Hut – Looking fresh before a long day to Lake Colenso

Day 2: Otukota Hut to Lake Colenso Hut via Iron Bark

The river was running a bit high the next morning after the rain from the few days preceding our trip, but it was still safe to cross. On the way to Iron Bark Hut, I made sure to check the DOC 200 traps along the track, clearing a few rats, stoats, and weasels. Iron Bark Hut sits on a beautiful, grassy flat that catches the sun perfectly, with the river nearby for swimming.

Top Tip: ⚠️ Track Update ⚠️ The Iron Bark suspension bridge has been removed following severe storm damage. Trampers will now have to cross the river instead to access Iron Bark Hut if approaching from Otukota Hut or Lake Colenso. Do not attempt to cross the river if it is in flood (murky, flowing very fast, or full of debris)

Two trampers cross a shallow river to get to Iron Bark hut int he Ruahine Range — The suspension Bridge at Iron Bark Hut has been removed but the river is easily crossable in low flows

Backcountry Conservation Tip – Stoat vs. Weasel: Stoats are larger, display a straight line along their sides where the brown fur meets the pale belly fur. They have a distinct black tip on their tail (see below); weasels are smaller, shorter, and don’t have the black tip (see below). Stoats are the number one killer of many native species in New Zealand. They are relentless hunters and a threat not to be underestimated. A stoat can even kill a 3kg takahē.

Stoat and weasel on top of predator trap showing difference in size, colouring and tail features

We didn’t linger too long at Iron Bark Hut as our main destination for the day was Lake Colenso Hut. This meant tackling yet another steep Ruahine climb up to point 970 before a gentler descent.

Three smiling trampers wearing Christmas hats standing outside the white timber Iron Bark Hut on a sunny grassy flat. — Iron Bark Hut

The final section where the track veers away from the Mangatera River was exceptionally muddy. An old boardwalk was occasionally visible beneath the mud. As the person leading, I felt like I spent significantly more time knee-deep in the mud than on the boardwalk. The rest of the group certainly gained valuable lessons on where not to stand based on my missteps!

Top Tip: ⚠️ Track Update ⚠️ This sidle track above the Mangatera River is highly slip-prone. A recent 80m slip has completely wiped out the original track. The track has been rerouted 25m higher to climb above it.

The Solitary Lake Colenso (Kokopunui)

We took the short detour to visit Lake Colenso (Kokopunui). As the only lake in the entire Ruahine Range, this small, green body of water is surrounded by towering limestone bluffs. What it lacks in sheer size, it makes up for in ecological value. It is incredibly unique because it has no introduced weeds or fish. Furthermore, the surrounding wetland represents the only remaining area of pristine lowland podocarp forest in the Ruahine Range (similar to the beautiful podocarp forest of Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Conservation Park)

An aerial, high-angle view looking down at Lake Colenso Kokopunui nestled deep within a dense, green New Zealand native podocarp forest. — The view down to the Lake Colenso on the way to Unknown Campsite

Colenso Hut is named after the pioneering missionary and botanist William Colenso, though interestingly, he never actually visited this specific area during his eight arduous crossings of the Ruahine between 1840 and 1850.

Anne had signed us up for the FMC “Love Our Huts” campaign for Colenso Hut. We spent the afternoon deep-cleaning. I volunteered to scrub the longdrop—transforming the stained green mouldy walls back to pristine white. It looked almost too clean to use!

The exterior of the white timber Colenso Hut with its classic red door, surrounded by long green grass and native bush. — Colenso Hut. There’s even been kiwi heard calling around near the hut

Day 3: Colenso Hut to Maropea Forks Hut via the Unknown Campsite

The next morning, we backtracked through the boggy forest to get to the Unknown Campsite junction. It started with a brutally steep climb up what felt like a knife-edge ridge, requiring plenty of hand-over-hand scrambling. By this stage, we were well and truly getting used to the rugged character of the Ruahine Range.

The track eventually dumped us directly into the streambed. It felt slightly intimidating—the high, overhanging conglomerate rock walls made us feel as though we were walking through a subterranean tunnel.

A rugged, rocky riverbed canyon route with overhanging trees, showing the backcountry route to the Unknown Campsite — The “subterranean tunnel” on the way to Unknown Campsite

I moved ahead to check the predator traps as we rolled into the Unknown Campsite. It’s a classic backcountry site featuring a flat grassy clearing, an established fireplace, and a semi-permanent tarpaulin setup, reminiscent of the deer-culling days.

Leaving the campsite, we faced yet another gruelling climb up a broad ridge completely overgrown with prickly shield fern (Polystichum vestitum). I was incredibly relieved to finally escape the ferns, even if the transition meant another knee-bashing steep descent to the river.

As we descended towards the Maropea River, we caught sight of the hut. Hilariously, from a distance, I mistook the elevated meat safe for the actual hut. I spent a few minutes genuinely wondering how a miniature hut of that scale was going to accommodate all of us, and how our exhausted bodies were going to climb into it!

A small a-frame meat safe with a red door at Maropea Forks Hut amongst native bush in the Ruahine Range — Not to be mistaken for the hut! The Maropea Forks Meat Safe

Whio & Ruahine Mountain Dolphins

Fortunately, the real Maropea Forks Hut appeared. The forecasted rain held off and the river crossing at Maropea Forks Hut was straightforward, although the group did use the mutual support method for extra safety. However, it was entirely safe to cross solo if confident. Better yet, the Ruahine Range finally delivered our long-awaited whio encounter, who were happily paddling in the river rapids.

An endangered whio (blue duck) stands in the Maropea River at Maropea Forks Hut in the Ruahine Range. — NZ’s whitewater specialist: Whio/Blue Duck

Maropea Forks Hut had a DoC sign about Ruahine Mountain Dolphins. This is a well-known, long-running inside joke about elusive, freshwater-dwelling “dolphins” that inhabit high-altitude rivers and mountain streams in the Ruahine Range. There is a similar DoC sign in Top Maropea Hut that says all sightings should be “reported for conversation purposes.” There may have been a possible but unconfirmed sighting of a Ruahine Mountain Dolphin but as per DoC instructions we didn’t disturb it since they are threatened by human interaction. After the trip I came across a rather hilarious blog “Chasing the NZ Mountain Dolphin” that referenced an old trip report of mine about the Ruahine Mountain Dolphins.

Close up of the humorous green and yellow Department of Conservation sign warning trampers to report sightings of the fictional Ruahine Mountain Dolphins. — In search of Ruahine Mountain Dolphins at Maropea Forks Hut

Day 4 & 5: Christmas Eve at Wakelings Hut and Christmas Day on the Mokai Plateau again

Day four followed the standard Ruahine tramping pattern for the trip: a steep climb followed by an equally steep descent. We spent Christmas Eve at Wakelings Hut. Arriving early in the afternoon allowed us time to swim in the deep, crystal-clear pools of the Waikamaka River. We even had time to read books in the sun on the warm riverbed.

A tramping track cutting through a moss-covered goblin forest of twisted beech trees on the way to Wakelings Hut. — Goblin forest on the track to Wakelings Hut on Christmas Eve.

The exterior of the green corrugated iron Wakelings Hut, nestled in a grassy clearing surrounded by beech trees in the Ruahine Forest Park. — Christmas Day in the backcountry

On Christmas Day we were blasted by an icy, freezing wind atop Rongotea. This kept us moving at a brisk pace across the Mokai Patea Range as we looked across to McKinnon Hut in the distance.

Three trampers in Christmas hats standing on the grassy ridge of Rongotea with panoramic views of the rugged Ruahine Range mountains behind them — Below Rongotea summit. Santa managed hitch a ride up the long climb

Trampers walking past the tarn below Rongotea peak in a strong wind, surrounded by the deep valleys of the Ruahine mountains with Mt Ruapehu in the distance and the golden tussock of the Mokai Patea Plateau — Below Rongotea on the Mokai Plateau with Mt Ruapehu in the distance

On the final, steep descent back down to the farmland, we abandoned standard walking altogether. We sat down and attempted to slide down the steep grassy slope with wildly varying levels of success. By the time we reached the car, we were back under a scorching summer sun. A stark contrast to the freezing winds just a few hours prior on the tops.

Future Ruahine Adventures

I’ve already added a few trips to the Mokai Patea Range to my list. Climbing Colenso Peak is on that list. As is McKinnon Hut, which sits right on the bushline overlooking the expanse of the plateau.

Looking across to McKinnon hut at the bushline edge from Rongotea peak on the Mokai Patea Range surrounded by golden tussock under a bright blue sky — Looking across to McKinnon Hut at the bushline. A future adventure awaits.

Trip completed December 2025.

Sarah Tramps NZ