Whakaari Conservation Area: Discovering "White Gold" & Spectacular Views

Map showing route of the McIntosh Loop & Heather Jock Loops in Whakaari Conservation area neat Glenorchy, Southern Alps, New Zealand

Bus Timetable Magic & “White Gold”

With only two days before my flight out of Queenstown, I needed a tramp that aligned with local transport. Fortunately, the Cromwell and Glenorchy bus timetables synced perfectly to get me to Whakaari Conservation Area. The driver was even kind enough to drop me directly at the start of the McIntosh Loop Track rather than continuing into Glenorchy township. Whakaari Conservation Area was once a busy mining hub due to the discovery of the mineral scheelite – “Otago’s white gold” in the 1880s and the conservation uses the old mining trails.

Top Tip: The start of the McIntosh Track can be a little hard to find as it is not signposted. Look for an orange pole at the side of the road about 300m north of the Whakaari carpark at the base of the Judah track.

Close-up of a South Island Edelweiss (Leucogenes grandiceps) flower growing in a rocky crevice in the Whakaari Conservation Area, New Zealand alpine flora — South Island Edelweiss (*Leucogenes grandiceps*)

The initial section of the track is somewhat overgrown but remains easy to navigate as it follows a fenceline along a water race. After crossing Buckler Burn, the real work began—a steep climb in the midday heat. I found myself frequently turning around to admire the sprawling views of Lake Wakatipu to justify a quick breather.

Top Tip: The McIntosh Loop track crosses the unbridged Buckler Burn here which is fast flowing even in dry conditions and can rise very quickly with rain. If the water level is high, it may be impassable.

View looking toward Black Peak from the McIntosh Peak ridgeline, Southern Alps, New Zealand. High-altitude rocky terrain and scree slopes under a clear blue sky — View from McIntosh Peak to Black Peak

A wide panoramic view of Mount Earnslaw and its glaciers seen from the Long Gully Saddle ridgeline and Southern Alps under a clear blue sky. — View of Mt Earnslaw during the climb up Black Peak

A Busy McIntosh Hut

Once I gained the ridge, the landscape opened up to reveal the magnificent Mt Earnslaw (Pikirakatahi) and the Dart Valley. I had been in the Earnslaw Burn Valley a few days earlier. From here, I followed an old mining track toward Long Gully Saddle. McIntosh Hut is a very short climb above the saddle

Top Tip: Due to historic mining activities, high levels of arsenic and heavy metals may be present in the soil and streams in the Whakaari area. Filtering or boiling the stream water does not remove the contamination. Do not use any of the streams for drinking, cooking or washing. Heather Jock, McIntyre and McIntosh huts all have water tanks.

Due to its incredible sunset views and mountain panoramas, the hut was quite busy. Seeking a bit more solitude, I continued off-track toward McIntosh Peak using a network of old mining trails. I attempted a descending sidle from McIntosh Peak back to the Black Peak track. In hindsight, it likely would have been faster to drop back to McIntosh Hut first and follow the established trail from there.

Top Tip: Allow 4-6 hours to McIntosh Hut from the carpark as it is a steep climb

High-altitude view looking down from the above McIntosh hut towards the McIntosh Loop Track, Lake Wakatipu and Glenorchy, showcasing the rugged alpine terrain of the Whakaari Conservation Area, New Zealand — View back down to McIntosh Hut and Lake Wakatipu

Summiting Black Peak (1,989m)

The old mining trails in Whakaari Conservation Area are remarkably easy to follow. Climbing Black Peak was well worth the effort. At 1,989m, it’s a significant summit that remains accessible and non-technical, offering a “big mountain” feeling.

As evening approached, I descended quickly toward McIntyre Hut. The trail here is a wide, grassy path that makes for fast and enjoyable walking.

A winding gravel hiking trail leads through golden tussock grass toward the rocky summit of Black Peak (1,989m) in the Whakaari Conservation Area near Glenorchy — Old mining trails to Black Peak

The Rustic Charm of McIntyre Hut

While McIntosh Hut was at capacity, I found McIntyre Hut much quieter, sharing the space with only one other person. This hut has lovely rustic charm, featuring old rusty horse shoes still in the corners and a gravel floor. After nearly 2,400m of climbing for the day, I was very glad to be there!

Top Tip: Allow 1-1.5 hours to McIntyre Hut from McIntosh Hut & 1 hr to the Judah track junction from McIntyre Hut

Exterior of the historic McIntyre Hut in the Whakaari Conservation Area, featuring its corrugated iron walls, green water tank, and a backdrop of rugged alpine ridges near Glenorchy — McIntyre Hut

Historic rusty horseshoes resting on a grey schist rock in the Whakaari Conservation Area, representing the area's rich mining and transport history near Glenorchy — Old shoes

Mt Alaska and Historic Mining Relics

I started early the next morning to catch my return bus to Queenstown. The descent follows old mining roads to cross the unbridged Buckler Burn before linking up with the Judah Track. This section passes numerous mining relics including an old aerial cableway and the historic Boozer and Bonnie Jean Huts which date back to before the 1940s. My goal for the day was Mt Alaska (1,965m). Despite the heat lower down, the summit lived up to its name with a bitterly cold wind. The views across to Mt Larkins and the surrounding ranges are spectacular—it’s definitely an area that warrants a return trip.

Top Tip: The McIntosh Loop track crosses the unbridged Buckler Burn here which is fast flowing even in dry conditions and can rise extremely quickly with rain. If the water level is high, it may be impassable.

Department of Conservation (DOC) danger sign for the Buckler Burn crossing on the McIntosh Loop Track, warning hikers of rapid water rises and hazardous conditions after rain or snowmelt — Buckler Burn warning sign

Historic aerial cableway and rusty ore bucket relics from the scheelite mining era, located along the Judah Track in the Whakaari Conservation Area near Glenorchy. — Old mining aerial cableway

The historic Bonnie Jean Hut, a rustic timber and corrugated iron mining hut located in the Whakaari Conservation Area on the way to the Judah Track, New Zealand — Historic Bonnie Jean Hut

The Walk Out: Heather Jock and Jean Hut

I returned to the Heather Jock Hut to retrieve my pack. It’s a tidy and cute little hut accompanied by a loo with a view! On the way down the Heather Jock Track I was fascinated by the historic Jean Hut; its rock walls are held down by wires weighted with heavy boulders—a testament to the basic building materials in historic times. Rounding out the trip on the Judah Track, I even encountered some ponies out for an overnight camp with their family. The Whakaari Conservation Area is truly a hidden gem, offering spectacular front-country tramping with a deep sense of history.

Top Tip: Allow 1-1.5 hours from the Judah Track Junction to Heather Jock Hut & 3 hours out from Heather Jock Hut to the carpark along the Judah track.

Top Tip: Topo Map CB10 Glenorchy

The historic Heather Jock Hut in the Whakaari Conservation Area, with the rocky summit of Mt Alaska (1,965m) rising in the background under a dramatic blue sky — Heather Jock Hut with Mt Alaska in the background

The historic Jean Hut in the Whakaari Conservation Area, showing the unique rusty iron walls and boulders hanging from wires to secure the roof against mountain winds — Jean Hut

Day 1: McIntosh Loop Track to McIntosh Hut, McIntosh Peak, Black Peak & McIntyre Hut – 6-8hrs, 2,358m elevation, 19.2km

Day 2: McIntyre Hut to Heather Jock Hut via Judah Track, Mt Alaska, Heather Jock & Judah tracks and Bucklerburn Track to Glenorchy – 6-7 hrs, 1,447m elevation, 22.4km

Sarah Tramps NZ

Whakaari Conservation Area: Discovering “White Gold” & Spectacular Views