Forget Totara Flats Hut—the ultimate luxury is a campfire brew in the solitude of the flats
Sarah heads into the Tararua Forest Park to visit the iconic Totara Flats. Leaving the bustle of Totara Flats Hut, she walks onto the flats and finds a place to camp in the shelter of the bush.. Then boiling the billy over a crackling campfire (having checked rural fire risk level) she makes a well-deserved cup of tea.
So, grab your favorite mug and pull up a log – this light-hearted journey is guaranteed to give you a taste of Kiwi backcountry camping at its best.
FAQ
Q. How long does it take to walk to Totara Flats?
Option 1: Via Mount Holdsworth (The Scenic Route)
- Time: 4.5 to 5 hours (one-way).
- Distance: 11 km.
- Terrain: Starts with a steady 1.5-hour climb up the well-graded Gentle Annie Track. From there, the trail becomes a bit more rugged and descends steeply Totara Creek suspension bridge and Totara Flats Hut.
Option 2: Via Waiohine Gorge (The Direct Route)
- Time: 4 to 4.5 hours (one-way).
- Distance: 9.5 km.
- Terrain: An undulating river terrace track that follows the Waiohine River. It features flat grassy clearings mixed with narrower sections, slips, and may have mud after rain (check DOC warnings especially regarding the active slip).
Q. Do I need to book Tōtara Flats Hut in advance?
Yes, bookings are mandatory for this serviced hut via the online DOC booking system and service hut fees apply. Because it stands on the popular Holdsworth–Kaitoke multi-day route, bunk spaces usually fill up quickly over weekends and summer months. You cannot turn up without a booking and expect a bunk.
Q. Does the hut provide cooking gas and heating?
No cooking gas is provided, meaning you must carry your own portable tramping stove and utensils. For heating, the hut features a large internal wood burner with firewood provided by DOC. It also includes internal cold-water taps from a rain tank and external long-drop toilets.
Q. Are there any dangerous river crossings on the main route?
No, the primary tracks use suspension bridges to safely span the main Waiohine River. However, heavy rain can rapidly flood unbridged side streams along the path, making them impassable.
Beware, there is a large slip on the Lower Waiohine Track just below the southern end of Totara Flats. The only access past the slip to Totara Flats Hut now requires walking upstream on the riverbank. This shouldn’t be attempted during or after heavy rainfall or when the river flow is high.
There is no longer easy access to pass above the slip.