Two Thumb Range: The Dog Kennel, Kea's Loot & Trojan War

A spectacular off-track 5 day loop in the Two Thumb Range from Mesopotamia over Brabazon Saddle, Inkerman Saddle, Alma Col and Balaclava Saddle.

The Two Thumb Range in Canterbury’s Te Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Area offers some rugged and remote tramping experiences through impressive, glacial valleys.

Map of 5 day route in the Two Thumb Range. Route to Crooked Spur Hut on Bush Stream Track; over Brabazon Saddle; Dog Kennel Biv; Inkerman Saddle; Alma Col; Trojan Stream; Balaclava Saddle and the Growler

A rewarding stop at Mount Somers Village

Our recent mission started with a bit of unexpected drama at the airport—a dead rental car battery! Thankfully, after an upgrade to a hybrid, we were finally on our way towards Mesopotamia Station.

On our way, we stopped at Mount Somers Village for lunch. A few years ago, a station owner reached out to me after reading my Mt Potts trip report. They wanted to use one of my photos for a community project. Seeing my photo of Lake Clearwater on the new information sign was fantastic. I hope it inspires more people to explore this stunning area of the Canterbury high country and enjoy it as much as I do.

A scenic photo of Lake Clearwater with a snowy Mt Poots, Cloudy Peak Range and Two Thumb Range in Hakatere Conservation Area featured on a local information sign in Mount Somers Village — My contribution to the information sign in Mt Somers Village. A photo from a winter trip to Lake Clearwater & the Mt Potts Range

Mesopotamia and Bush Stream in the Two Thumb Range

A bright red Fly Agaric toadstool (Amanita muscaria) with white spots growing in the forest leaf litter along the Bush Stream track in the Two Thumb Range near Mesopotamia. — Delightful fungi: Just like in a fairytale…..

At Bush Stream track carpark we came across two gentlemen prodding the matagouri bushes with sticks. They had hidden their keys in a bush and then promptly forgot where they had stashed the keys. We helped them in their search but had no luck. I suspect it was like looking for a needle in a haystack (there is a tramp where you can look for a needle in a haystack!)

The route up Bush Stream follows a section of the Te Araroa Trail. As we followed the valley, occasionally crossing Bush Stream, we met a couple of thru-hikers.

Top Tip: You don’t need to criss-cross Bush Stream between every marker. The stream bed changes constantly so just pick the easiest route. In spring or during snow melt, time your crossings for the morning. Be prepared to wait if the levels are high. Even in low flows, the stream is relatively deep and can be mid-thigh in some areas.

A campsite of trampers on a grassy river terrace on the Bush Stream Track in the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury, New Zealand. Three bright red and green tents are pitched near a stand of native beech forest, with three people and gear visible in the background. — Camp in Bush Stream. Photo: Anne

We eventually found a perfect camp on a high river terrace. Surrounded by delightful tiny toadstools like from a fairytale and plenty of dead beech for a fire, we boiled the billy and toasted marshmallows as the sun dipped.

A close up photo of a campfire with a pot with water on a river terrace on the Bush Stream track in the Two Thumb Range — A skill always worth practicing – boiling a billy by campfire. Photo: Anne

Crooked Spur Hut & Brabazon Saddle

Three trampers crossing the shallow, rocky Bush Stream and heading up the valley on the Te Araroa Trail section of the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury high country. Crooked spur and Rugged mountains and scree slopes are illuminated by early morning sun in the distance — Heading up Bush Stream. Crooked Spur in the distance.

As we climbed a steep ridge to bypass a gorge in Bush Stream, the clag started to roll in. The final climb through beech forest to Crooked Spur Hut was still used for mustering right up until 2009. We arrived at Crooked Spur Hut in a blanket of mist. It was a surprise to find the hut so tidy despite how busy it had been over the Te Araroa season.

Top Tip: The last crossing of Bush Stream requires care to find a safe place to cross. It may be necessary to cross either up or down from the orange track marker on the other side depending on river flow

Top Tip: There is no water tank at Crooked Spur Hut but there is a stream very close to the hut.

Three trampers stand outside an old musterers' hut known as Crooked Spur Hut on the Two Thumb Range section of the Te Araroa Trail. They are surrounded by mist. — The team at Crooked Spur Hut

A sole tramper climbs through dense mist over rocks towards Brabazon Saddle in the Two Thumb Range — Heading through the clag to Brabazon Saddle

We climbed up to Brabazon Saddle in the clag, occasionally getting glimpses of the large, glaciated valley. A brocken spectre formed behind us. Once at Brabazon Saddle it was a fun descent down scree to Black Birch Creek. Anne and Matt had talked about sidling at the 1,200m contour line to avoid a gorge and some bluffs. However, we ended up following the stream down as it was easier walking with some animal trails. We did have to navigate through some bluffs and gullies lower down the valley but it was relatively easy and I would take the same way again.

A tramper in a red jacket descending a vast grey scree slope from Brabazon Saddle in the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury. The high-altitude landscape is partially obscured by mountain mist and low cloud. — Anne descending from Brabazon Saddle

A tramper in a blue jacket descending a steep grey scree slope from Brabazon Saddle in the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury. — Tony enjoying the scree descent from Brabazon Saddle. It wasn’t quite a scree escalator.

Trampers navigating rocky bluffs and steep terrain above Black Birch Creek in the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury. Two hikers with packs are shown sidling across a grey rock face in a rugged alpine environment. — Navigating under the bluffs down the branch of Black Birch Creek

A night in the Dog Kennel

We were pleasantly surprised by Dog Kennel Bivvy. Tony had described it as derelict on his last visit. Clearly it has since been refurbished and even featured four camp chairs. Perfect for our group! Matt decided he would make the Dog Kennel his home for the night! I don’t think he had misbehaved but he still ended up in there anyway……..

The historic Dog Kennel Bivouac, a small corrugated iron backcountry hut nestled in native beech forest within the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury. It sits on the true left of Black Birch Creek — Matt’s home for the night: In the Dog Kennel. Photo: Anne

Inkerman Saddle & the Spikey Descent

A cascading section of Black Birch Creek in the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury. The fast-flowing mountain creek runs over dark boulders, framed by native mountain ribbonwood trees under a clear blue alpine sky. — Black Birch Creek with Mountain Ribbonwood (Hoheria glabrata)

Tony promised us that the next day the clag would be gone, replaced by sun. Initially it looked like his prediction was completely wrong but as we climbed to Inkerman Saddle the cloud started to clear, revealing another cloudy form – Cloudy Peak Range. We now had views right across to Brabazon Saddle where we had climbed through the previous day. It truly was spectacular country. The big valleys with towering peaks made me feel so small and awestruck by it. Tony described it as “like the Raglan Range on steroids.”

A tramper standing next to a mountain waterfall in a narrow rock gorge at Black Birch Creek, Two Thumb Range, during the climb to Inkerman Saddle. The rugged alpine terrain features steep grey bluffs and technical off-track navigation in the Canterbury high country. — Anne navigating a small gorge section in Black Birch Creek on the way to Inkerman Saddle

Top Tip: There was one gorge section in the stream that was a bit more challenging through. We passed packs to make it easier. However, I also saw afterwards we could have climbed up the stream next to it and circled around behind the bluff

Trampers climbing through a high-alpine valley towards Inkerman Saddle in the Two Thumb Range. The landscape features steep scree slopes, golden tussock, and flowering spaniards (Aciphylla) under a bright blue sky in Canterbury. — Climbing to Inkerman Saddle, The clouds finally disappeared and a bluebird day emerged.

The descent into Alma Stream was a battle through thick tussock and prickly spaniards (Aciphylla colensoi) while finding some mountain ribbonwood trees still with their beautiful white flowers.

A group of trampers sitting on a high mountain ridge for lunch at Inkerman Saddle, overlooking the glaciated valley and scree peaks of the Two Thumb Range in Canterbury. A view towards Brabazon Saddle in the distance — Lunch on Inkerman Saddle. Brabazon Saddle in the centre in the distance. Photo: Anne

A happy tramper descending a scree slope from Inkerman Saddle toward Alma Stream. The Two Thumb Range landscape features golden tussock and spaniards (Aciphylla colensoi) under a clear blue sky. — Tony running away from the prickly spaniards and avoiding the clutches of the deep tussocks

The Midnight Kea Party & their Loot

The bush in Alma Stream was dense, so we had to camp out in the open on the stream bank. There were a few kea flying noisily around. I thought that they would not bother us because the valley was more remote with not many visitors. How wrong I was!

We woke up in the middle of the night to a cheeky kea causing absolute mayhem. It had boldly stuck its head under all our tents and secured a loot from each one of us. Shoes, socks, inner soles, crocs and sit pads were strewn all around our campsite. We had to spend time the next morning searching for the inner sole from one of Matt’s boots that the cheeky kea had pulled out and dragged away. Luckily, we recovered everything, and Matt’s tent only suffered a few beak holes as a parting gift from the cheeky kea.

A backcountry campsite in Alma Stream, Two Thumb Range, Canterbury. The image shows three hikers and their tents pitched in an open tussock clearing surrounded by dense native forest, spaniards and rugged mountain slopes. — Setting up camp on the banks of Alma Stream. Perfect target for cheeky kea! Photo: Matt

Alma Col & the Greek Mythology Inspired Valley

Leaving Anne and Tony to take a shorter and more relaxed route, Matt and I pushed on toward Alma Col (2,139m). After navigating extensive and what felt like endless villages of spaniards, who were clearly having a fantastic summer (I deeply regretted my lack of gaiters!), we hit the final climb to the col. This part was really energy sapping with moveable boulders and scree although I managed to make it easier by sneaking up the permanent snow for some of it.

Top Tip: Heading up Alma Stream towards Alma Col, we found that the scree slope at the edge of the tussock and spaniards on the true right of the stream was much easier walking.

Looking towards Alma Col (2,139m) from the upper Alma Stream valley in the Two Thumb Range. The off-track alpine route crosses golden tussock, spaniards, scattered boulders, and steep scree slopes with patches of snow in the Canterbury high country. — Looking towards Alma Col

Looking back toward the Rangitata River valley from the steep scree ascent to Alma Col (2,139m) with patches of snow just below the col. The image shows the rugged peaks and glaciated valleys of the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury high country. Mt Potts is visible in the distance - the flat peak. — Matt on the long climb towards Alma Col with Mt Potts in the background

A tramper with a large backpack ascending a permanent snow patch below Alma Col (2,139m) in the Two Thumb Range. The technical off-track route involves navigating steep loose rock and alpine snow in Canterbury, New Zealand. — On the final push to Alma Col

Reaching the Col at 2,139m was the highlight of the trip, offering panoramic views west towards Aoraki/Mt Cook and Mt Sibbald; and east towards the Rangitata River.

A tramper standing at Alma Col (2,139m) overlooking the glaciated peaks of the Southern Alps including Aoraki/Mt Cook, Mt Sibbald and Exeter Peak. The rugged alpine scenery of the Two Thumb Range, Canterbury, is visible under a clear blue sky. — Matt at Alma Col, 2,139m. Looking west towards Aoraki/Mt Cook (snowy peak on the left); Mt Sibbald (closest snowy peak on the right); Exeter (right of Mt Sibbald)

The descent into Trojan Stream was another “Boulder Bashing Olympics” session. We were soon going to be great at the Boulder Bashing Olympics like our friend Emily. We spent the afternoon identifying peaks, cols and basins with names from Greek mythology related to the Trojan War: Achilles, Cassandra, Iliad, Odyssey, Priam, Ajax, Tantalus, Athene and Electra.

The golden tussock and boulder strewn valley of Trojan Stream, looking up to a tall and pointy peak called Alma Peak — Looking back up Trojan Stream with Alma Peak at the head of the Valley looking very intimidating

We found a good campsite in North East Gorge Stream just under 1km from the confluence of Trojan and North East Gorge Streams. It was lovely watching the last of the sunlight (the “magic hour”) on Stag Saddle ridge that the Te Araroa follows and hearing the kea (no loot for them this night though!)

Backcountry camping in North East Gorge Stream, Two Thumb Range. Two green tents with one tramper are pitched in a tussock clearing as sunset light hits the surrounding scree mountain peaks in Canterbury, New Zealand. Stag saddle ridge of the Te Araroa Trail is visible in the distance — North East Gorge Stream Campsite

The Sisyphus Climb: Balaclava Saddle

Our final challenge was Balaclava Saddle. We got an early start knowing the wind was picking up gale-force winds later in the day. There were a number of moveable rocks in the stream and first part of the climb so we had to be careful of our lines. The climb itself was grueling—two steps up, one slide back down. It felt like the eternal punishment of Sisyphus, rolling a boulder uphill to near the top only to have it slide back down. The saddle seemed to be getting further away rather than closer…..I hoped having my footsteps to follow would make things a bit easier for Matt. However, I’m sure he, like me, was also rethinking his life choices about our route. Eventually we made it to what we thought was the obvious saddle, only to realise we were slightly to the east of it!

A tramper with a large backpack navigating a field of massive boulders while en route to Balaclava Saddle. The image showcases the challenging off-track alpine terrain of the Two Thumb Range in Canterbury, New Zealand. — Sarah competing in the Boulder Bashing Olympics in North East Gorge Stream

Early morning view of the rocky upper catchment of North East Gorge Stream, looking toward Balaclava Saddle in the Two Thumb Range. The rugged alpine terrain features a boulder-filled riverbed with sunrise light hitting the high peaks including Graf Spee — The first of the sun hitting the head of the valley as we climbed up North East Gorge Stream towards Balaclava Saddle

A tramper ascending a steep, expansive scree slope to Balaclava Saddle in the Two Thumb Range. Plata Col is visible in the background. The landscape showcases the rugged alpine terrain of the Te Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Area, Canterbury, under a hazy sky. — Matt on the “Sisyphus Climb” to Balaclava saddle

A tramper stands on a high alpine saddle with rugged peak called Graf Spee behind him in the Two Thumb Range — Matt with Graf Spee behind him

The Growler

The descent down the Growler Stream was easy travel until we came to a gorge 2km before the confluence of the Growler with the Havelock River. Luckily, we found a few rock cairns that guided us through a foot trail that climbed up around the gorge.

Top Tip: To bypass the gorge, stay on the true left of the Growler. It is marked sporadically by cairns and a ground trail

A tramper descending the head of the Growler Stream toward the Havelock Valley. The image shows the vast, grey scree slopes and rugged alpine terrain of the Two Thumb Range in the Canterbury high country. — Matt heading down towards Growler Stream

A tramper in the Two Thumb Range descending through steep scrub around a gorge in the Growler Stream with the Havelock River and Cloudy Peak Range visible in the distance. The off-track alpine landscape features glaciated valleys and rugged mountain peaks in the Canterbury high country, New Zealand. — Above the gorge in the Growler

A Shortened Walk Out Thanks To Trail Magic

We arrived at Growler Hut to find it busy with tahr hunters for Easter weekend. With high winds and dust storms, we decided to push on all the way back to the car. It was going to be a very long walk along a 4WD road. Luckily, a ute passed us near Black Hut and kindly offered us a lift.

A 4WD track alongside the Havelock River at Mesopotamia, Canterbury. The image captures strong winds creating dust storms across the wide, braided riverbed, with the rugged mountains of the Two Thumb Range and Southern Alps in the background. — Dust storms caused by high winds as we followed the Havelock River out

We eventually reunited with Anne and Tony, who were safely tucked away under the poplar trees back at the start of the Bush Stream Track. In the morning we woke up to a fiery sunrise and the forecasted rain started just as we got back to the car.

Another classic New Zealand back country adventure that has inspired me to return to explore the Two Thumb Range and Te Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Area more.

A vibrant orange and red sunrise over the Harper mountain ranges at the start of the Bush Stream at Mesopotamia in the Two Thumb Range. The landscape features silhouetted hills and golden tussock flats under a dramatic sky in the Canterbury high country — Sunrise from our campsite at the start of the Bush Stream Track

Trip completed in March/April 2026
Day 1:Bush Stream Track to campsite – 7.1km, 2hr, 198m elevation
Day 2: Bush Stream Campsite to Dog Kennel Biv via Brabazon Saddle – 13.3km, 6-8hr, 1,438m elevation
Day 3: Dog Kennel Biv to Alma Stream via Inkerman Saddle – 8.7km, 5-6hr, 761m elevation
Day 4: Alma Stream to North East Gorge Stream via Alma Col – 10.3km, 7hr, 1,198m elevation
Day 5: North East Gorge Stream, over Balaclava Saddle to just before Black Mountain Hut where picked up by ute – 19k, 7-8hr, 900m elevation

Sarah Tramps NZ

Two Thumb Range: The Dog Kennel, Kea’s Loot & Trojan War